11/4/2022 0 Comments Wd50000d032 remove caseThe light pipe structure seems quite interesting, as there appears to be a push-through-fit rubberized “chamber” which connects the light-pipe to the LED. The top segment appears to house the power conversion circuitry to provide the 5v rail to the drive. A Winbond SPI flash containing the firmware can also be seen. The board disconnects by sliding upwards.Ī closer look at the board reveals the use of a customized Asmedia controller, labelled ASM1051W, likely related to the plain ASM1051. Then, you can pull out the light-pipe from the underside mounting hole, and undo the bridge-board securing screw with a Philips screwdriver. To take the assembly apart, you should ease the drive out of the frame by pushing it up, and then pulling it horizontally away from the rear. Similar to a Toshiba drive I took apart earlier, the bridge board itself is very small, and occupies a corner of the drive. As expected, the green drive is visible above, sitting in its frame. You will find undoing the rails on the top of the case requires more lateral movement, but soon enough, it will give way and the C shaped cover will just slide off without any broken clips, although possibly with screwdriver marks on the casing such as with my first attempt above.īe very careful while handling the drive frame, as it is only secured in two of the holes by rubberized grommets, whereas the other two holes are “drop-in” and the drive can “drop-out” if you’re not careful. Repeat for the other corner, flip the drive over, and repeat. Start from one corner, until you hear a loud “click” as the notch in the rail is disengaged. The interlocking notches are not evenly spaced, and from some experimentation, it seems easiest to start in the corner of the curved section on the bottom first.īy wedging an extremely stiff plastic spudger, or a flat-head screwdriver in my case, into the gap in the casing near the curves, I managed to exert enough force on one corner to start sliding the case out of its rail. The enclosure design is pretty simple, with a central frame and a C-shaped wrap-around frame which has rails which interlock with the central frame. Instead, this drive is basically a game of prying it open, and it’s easier than others I have tried previously. It doesn’t have any obvious clips which can be depressed through the vent-holes as with previous WD models. The WD MyBook enclosure for the 6Tb units I have is made with a screwless design. However, I do not take any responsibility for what happens if you follow these instructions, and I certainly don’t advocate doing this unless it is absolutely necessary. I’ve performed my commissioning testing on the four units, which achieved satisfactory results, so I have made the decision to forego the warranty. This would likely catch any transit-damaged infant-mortality cases, but is no guarantee. It makes sense then, to stress test the drives and qualify them prior to this. As a result, you really do have to make a decision to forego your warranty before even considering attempting this. WD50000D032 REMOVE CASE SERIAL NUMBERSThe serial numbers are coded specifically, and if the unit is returned with evidence of tampering, the warranty will be void. Of course, it goes without saying, that if you take out a hard drive from its enclosure, you automatically lose any warranty on the unit. As a bonus, once I’ve extracted the drives inside, I would have some enclosures with bridge chips that do the odd 4kB sector translation, and a few 12v switching power supplies to use in hobby projects. In the external enclosure configuration, they have better shock resistance in transportation, and they have an extra year of warranty. The main reason I went with the external enclosure versions was because I could get them delivered for about AU$5 less per drive than buying the bare drive with a 2-year warranty. Well, seeing as I purchased four of the 6Tb MyBook drives, you didn’t think I would just leave them in their external cases, being strangled by a USB 3.0 bus without UASP, right?
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